Do It Yourself Backyard Landscaper

Archive for the ‘Basics and Techniques’ Category

Improving Your Garden by Adding a Fountain –Part 2

However, I still had a slight problem with supplying my fountain with
power. You see, my garden isn’t very close to my house. I thought it would
look pretty tacky to run an extension cord across my yard, so I had to
come up with another solution. I discussed my situation with a Home Depot
employee, and he quickly found me the exact solution I needed: an
extension cord meant for being buried! All it took was a few hours of
digging a small trench across my yard, and I had power to my fountain
without an unsightly cord running across my yard. After I got over this
little hitch, my fountain plan went beautifully.

So if you’re looking for a way to make your garden a more classy and
beautiful place to be, I hope you consider installing a fountain. The
whole process is surprisingly inexpensive, and I think that you will be
very happy with the results. Having a fountain in your garden is not only
soothing, but it also adds a lot of character to an otherwise bland
garden. Remember, gardens are not just for giving us vegetables! A garden
is a place to go when you want to retreat from the outside world and dwell
in your own thoughts with no disturbance.

Improving Your Garden by Adding a Fountain –Part 1

A great way to spice up your garden is to add a water feature. These can
be both soothing and aesthetically appealing. I’ve found that there’s
nothing more relaxing than sitting on a bench next to my garden and
listening to my fountain while I read a good book or do some studying.
Putting in a water feature is fairly easy and relatively inexpensive, and
will add immensely to the pleasantness of your garden. Also, the
maintenance level is minimal.

Usually, people install fountains for the benefit of the natural ambience
it provides. For some reason, being around a gorgeous scene of water gives
you a positive energy. This is also good if you practice Tai Chi or some
form of yoga or meditation. The constant drone of the water is exactly
what most people need to concentrate on what they are doing. Even if
you’re not into that kind of stuff, just being in a garden with a fountain
has a sort of meditative quality to it, even if you’re not trying to do
so. I recommend it to anyone.

When you first decide to put in a fountain, you need to put great care
into picking out one that will go well with the rest of your garden. If
you have any other decorations, you want to consider if it goes well with
your motif. Does the fountain you’re considering stand out in your garden
like a sore thumb, or does it look like it was meant to be there? If
you’re like me, you can’t naturally tell whether the fountain will be a
good addition to your garden just by looking at it. So my solution was to
bring my sister (a natural at fashion design and that kind of stuff) along
with a picture of my garden to the store. I was able to get her expert
opinion, as well as see for myself what it would look like. By doing this
I was able to pick a beautiful rock fountain that goes marvelously with
the rest of my garden.

Creating a Raised Bed –Part 2

If you want to start a raised garden in a non grassy area, you won’t have much trouble. Just find some sort of border to retain the dirt you will be adding. I’ve found that there is nothing that works quite as well as a few two by fours. After you’ve created the wall, you must put in the proper amount soil and steer manure. Depending on how long you plan to wait before planting, you will want to adjust the ratio to allow for any deteriorating that may occur.

If you’re trying to install a raised bed where sod already exists, you will have a slightly more difficult time. You will need to cut the sod around the perimeter of the garden, and flip it over. This may sound simple, but you will need something with a very sharp edge to slice the edges of the sod and get under it. Once you have turned it all upside down, it is best to add a layer of straw to discourage the grass from growing back up. After the layer of straw, simply add all the soil and steer manure that a normal garden would need.

Planting your plants in your new area shouldn’t pose much difficulty. It is essentially the same process as your usual planting session. Just be sure that the roots don’t extent too far into the original ground level. The whole point of creating the raised bed is to keep the roots out of the soil which saturates easily. Having long roots that extend that far completely destroys the point.

Once you have plants in your new bed, you’ll notice an almost immediate improvement. The added soil facilitates better root development. At the same time, evaporation is prevented and decomposition is discouraged. All of these things added together makes for an ideal environment for almost any plant to grow in. So don’t be intimidated by the thought of adjusting the very topography of your yard. It is a simple process as I’m sure you’ve realized, and the long term results are worth every bit of work.

Creating a Raised Bed –Part 1

If your current planting goals involve plants that require good water drainage, I am sure you know how frustrating it is to have a yard that just won’t cooperate. Some plants can handle the excess water that comes about from being in an area that doesn’t drain properly. In fact, it might just cause them to bloom more lushly. However, other plants don’t cope as well, and it will cause them to die a gruesome, bloated death. You should always find out about the drainage required for every plant you buy, and make sure that it won’t conflict with any of the areas you are considering planting it in.

In order to test how much water your designated patch of soil will retain, dig a hole approximately ten inches deep. Fill it with water, and come back in a day when all the water had disappeared. Fill it back up again. If the 2nd hole full of water isn’t gone in 10 hours, your soil has a low saturation point. This means that when water soaks into it, it will stick around for a long time before dissipating. This is unacceptable for almost any plant, and you are going to have to do something to remedy it if you want your plants to survive.

The usual method for improving drainage in your garden is to create a raised bed. This involves creating a border for a small bed, and adding enough soil and compost to it to raise it above the rest of the yard by at least 5 inches. You’ll be amazed at how much your water drainage will be improved by this small modification. If you’re planning to build a raised bed, your prospective area is either on grass or on dirt. For each of these situations, you should build it slightly differently.

Continued in Part 2

by Masni Rizal Mansor

Like nearly everything else, it is possible to pay someone else to trim your landscape plants. However, it is much more economical to learn how to properly prune your trees and shrubs yourself. Additionally, the exercise gives some people great enjoyment, as it is an excuse to be outside and enjoy fine weather and fresh air. There are different techniques to pruning, and different times of the year when such pruning is appropriate. By keeping a careful watch on your yard and paying attention to when your trees bloom, you can make sure to keep your landscape in the best shape through careful pruning.

Deciduous trees and bushy plants. These woody trees and plants are best pruned in early spring while they are still dormant. Some plants, however, go through a process of “bleeding,” when sap runs out of the cuts. While this does not actually harm the plant or tree, it can cause homeowners distress and worry. Therefore, when pruning plants that tend to bleed (such as maple, box elder, black walnut, elm, birch, and honeylocust), it is also acceptable to wait until they are fully leafed out.

Woody bushes like lilac, spirea, mock orange, viburnum, and forsythia should be pruned immediately after blooming. These plants have flowering buds that are produced every previous growing season. And, by pruning such plants directly after they bloom, you will be able to decorate your house with the sweet smelling blossoms on the pruned branches. These small branches, and the thin, small branches of a tree, may be cut with ease all the way through with only a single cut.

When removing a large branch on a tree, however, you will need to make three cuts. This will help you avoid tearing the bark. The first cut is placed on the under side of the branch, and should be located about 12 inches from where the branch meets the trunk. This cut is not very deep — only one-fourth to one-third of the way through the branch. Next, a cut should be made on the topside of the branch, and should be about two inches farther from the trunk than the first cut. Saw completely through the branch on the second cut. The last cut on the branch should be just beyond the branch collar. Leaving a stub encourages disease, and cutting the main trunk produces a wound that heals slower.

Evergreens. Evergreens have a slightly different consideration that the deciduous woody plants. They can be pruned in the early spring, but you should ensure that the new growth has hardened. Evergreens can be pruned practically any time between mid-April and mid-August. It is important to have them trimmed before mid-August because if you wait any longer, they may not recover from their wounds in time to withstand the winter.

Pruning of evergreens should be based upon the presence of their branch foliage. Do not cut beyond the green foliage portion. If you continue to prune, lightly, evergreens such as arborvitaes, yews, and junipers, each summer, they will eventually be a thicker and fuller plant. Failure to prune will result in scraggly-looking trees. Larger junipers and other plants may need a size reduction. In order to do this, follow the branches to be cut until you find new small growth that parallels the branch. Make your cut, diagonally, just beyond the reach of this smaller, parallel branch.

In some evergreens, you will find that the top has been lost due to injury. In such cases, you need to “build” a new top. This can be done by selecting the largest of the whorls nearest the top and by gently bending it up. Tie the branch to an attached brace, using a non-girdling material such as cloth. Then cut back the other lateral branches so that they cannot compete with the branch chosen as the new top. As with deciduous trees, it is important to cut back to a side branch or bud, and to leave no stubs.

No matter what type of tree you are pruning, the practices of topping, hat-racking, and heading are not recommended. These methods of trimming are not true pruning techniques, and they result in small shoots, called suckers, to form near the cut surface. These suckers are weak and rarely attractive, and they can distort the shape of the tree. And once improperly pruned, a tree may never return to its characteristic form.

Masni Rizal Mansor is successful author and publisher for http://www.buy-trees-online.com. Get the best of evergreen trees and flowering trees at a discount price.

Article Source: http://www.a1-articledirectory.com

by Ben Bentan

There is a complex invisible world beneath your feet and it is necessary to make an effort to develop an appreciation of how the state of the soil affects plant growth.

Soil is a mixture of tiny rock particles, living organisms, chemicals and the remains of dead plants and animals. Spaces between the particles will also contain a certain amount of air and water depending on the type of soil.

Rocks near the earth’s surface are slowly broken down in nature by a process called weathering. Eventually small particles such as sand, silt and clay are formed. These particles create the environment for billions of mostly tiny organisms to live. Larger organisms such as earthworms and  insects are also found in soil. A healthy soil is teeming with life.

The main aim as a hobby farmer is thus to try to improve soil health by good management. Poor management can lead to a loss of fertility and degradation of the soil. In extreme cases the valuable topsoil can also be blown or washed away. In the end poor soils lead to low quality crops lacking in nutrition.

Below are examples of some checks I plan to carry out on my farm with the aim of improving soil fertility.

1) Carry out a pH test in different places. This test will determine if the soil is acid, alkaline or neutral. Most plants prefer a pH level around 6.5. Should the pH level be too (below 6) corrections can be made by adding lime. Should the pH be too high (above 7) this can be lowered by adding plenty of organic matter and mulch. Extremely alkaline soils can be changed by adding ground sulphur.

2) Check the soil texture of the soil by rubbing some moist soil between your fingers. This will help to determine the type of soil present. Sandy soils will have a coarse feel. These soils dry quickly. Adding lots of organic matter will improve sandy soils. Very sandy soil can also be improved by adding clay. If the soil feels sticky when rubbed it contains too much clay. Clay soils drain slowly and are difficult to work when wet. Adding gypsum will help in most cases.  Should the soil have a good balance of sand, silt and clay you will be blessed with a loamy soil. These soils are generally easy to manage and do not require treatments.

3) Check the level of organic matter in the soil. This can be done by shaking a handful of soil in a jar and seeing how much organic matter floats to the surface. If only a thin layer is present on the surface, lots of organic matter needs to be added. This means more microorganisms can be sustained, these in turn will release essential health giving chemicals needed by plants.

The above tests are simple to carry out and much information is available on these topics. Further tests require equipment or a soil testing company to analyse the soil. These include salinity, especially if bore water is used. Individual soil nutrient levels for Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium as well as trace element levels can also be measured. Other aspects such as fertilizer application and cultivation practices to maintain soil structure also need attention.

Soil care requires years of experience and looking to older gardeners will give you lots of essential tips. Also, experienced gardeners can often identify soil problems by looking at the general appearance of plants. Getting a spade and digging around will give you information about conditions such as waterlogging and excessive dryness.

Do all you can to look after your soil and allow your plants to carry out the magic task of turning fertilizers and compost into healthy and nutritious food.

This article on is taken from Alf’s Hobby farm site at http://www.farmforfun.com/Soil.html You can read more on hobby farming at http://www.farmforfun.com

Ben provides assistance and consultancy to real and virtual estate owners in Singapore, Malaysia and Australia. His works include an Australian Hobby Farm. Ben is also in the process of publishing a eBook on hobby farming. We invite you to give your comments and suggestions on farming and gardening at Contact Us

Article Source: http://www.a1-articledirectory.com

By: John Radcliffe

You’re all set to go out and buy that set of new patio furniture. Checkbook in hand, you set out, only to find out when you are in the showroom that there are a bewildering array of choices - and confused, you leave without buying anything. Sound familiar? If so, then why not use our simple 3-step approach ?

What’s step 1, you say? Well, here it is (ta-da): Choose Your Location. What do I mean by that? Simply this: THINK about where this furniture is going to go. Will it be used exclusively outside? Or will it also be used indoors, such as in a sunroom or playroom? And if you will need to move your furniture - how far will you have to move it, let’s say, to put it into storage for the winter? Could you really lift and carry it all that distance?
The answers to all of these questions will determine the size as well as the type of the furniture that you should select. For example, if you will need to carry or move your patio furniture yourself, you will need to buy something that is a little lighter. If you are going to leave your patio furniture outside all year, then it needs to be made of really durable materials.

But there’s more: If you are buying patio furniture, just how much room do you have there? Don’t overbuy on furniture - you will end up with too many pieces, and your patio area will be very crowded with all of that furniture jammed in too tightly. Buy what you need, but not more than you need, or what your patio area can comfortably hold.

Step 2 is equally as simple: Choose Your Furniture Pieces. As amazing as it might sound, all outdoor furniture can be placed in one of three groups: tables, seating and recliners. Given your patio location and it’s size, what pieces do you need? As well, you can also buy many different accessories: pillows, outdoor lanterns, grills, swings, even outdoor bars for that outdoor party you’ve been wanting to host.
The basic rule of thumb: buy quality patio furniture, not cheap junk. Buy less, not more. Make sure that everything matches. Make sure that your furniture is the proper size and weight.

Step 3 is the last: Choose Your Materials. You will have several choices to make here, also. Natural products look great. Some require regular maintenance and repair though: will you be able to devote the time to doing that? You can buy something like Teak, which will weather beautifully, but it is more expensive. Patio furniture made out of synthetic materials is far less expensive, and requires less maintenance, but be careful: the quality can vary enormously. Even metal frames can rust or corrode - so you see that there is really no one ‘best’ type of material - it is a trade-off, and you must weigh the pros and cons of using each type before making your selection.

So there you have it. First, choose your location, next consider the pieces that you will need, and then choose your materials. Simple enough? Now you’re ready to hit the showroom floor!

Article Source: http://www.a1-articledirectory.com

About the author: John Radcliffe offers his expertise on home repair and Outdoor Wicker Furniture Learn all aboutPortable Charcoal Grills by visiting his website.

By: Steve Buchanan

Then a lawnmower will defiantly help you in your work. Before mowing your lawn or your garden there are various tips that may increase the prosperity of a lawn. For instance, mowing in different directions helps to prevent the look of leaning grass blades. Try diagonal, horizontal, and vertical patterns. When mowing, you should avoid making sharp turns. Also, it is important to never mow a lawn that is wet as it only invites fungus to attacks. Now the question arises that how you can buy it?

This is my personal experience that this lawn mower machine is really one of the most valuable and time-Saving power tools. There are different types of lawn mower available in the market which will sure make your work as simple as you want it. You can easily choose one of them according to your choice. Before buying any lawnmower you must make a research that which one will be good for you. You can also consult any expert to get the proper equipment for your lawn. So let’s look at the different types of lawn mower available in the market:

There is manual push mower in market. These are good if you don’t have a lot of grass to cut and you cut it regularly. It’s actually quite a satisfying thing to do but only if you have a very small patch of grass to cut. Next one is an electric or gas mower. These come in a couple of different forms. The first type has the powered cutter blade but you still have to push the lawnmower yourself. These are ideal for a bit more grass than the manual push mower but you do still have to push it.

They are good for cutting down long grass if you have let an area grow a bit too long but can be hard work for larger areas. If you have slopes and rough ground then you might find this is hard work. The thing with a gas lawnmower is that it will cut tall grass, but a manual push mower won’t be very easy to use. If you go to the next type and get a powered blade and driven wheeled lawnmower you can let the mower do all the work. All you have to do is guide it. These are ideal for medium sized areas of grass and can also cope with the long grass. Finally we have the Ride-on, or Riding lawnmower.

These are the top of the range lawn mowers available in the market now a day that are actually small tractors. This can be an enjoyable way to get outside and see your garden without having to actually do all the work. Because they are powered and all you have to do is sit on them and guide them they can be very good for the elderly or slightly infirm and could pay for themselves as you don’t need to employ a gardener to cut your grass.

By ensuring your lawnmower is in perfect running order and following a few simple lawnmower safety tips, you will ensure your mower keeps going for many seasons. The ride-on lawnmower is excellent when you have a lot of grass to cut and you want an easy life. If you are still a little confused? Then you can use a website that will tell you more about the different types of mowers and also shows you some pictures.

Besides this lawnmower there are also other types of equipments which may be required for your lawn. These equipments are:

a) A garden Shredder

a garden shredder is a type of tool which is used to speed up your shredding activities and generally have high watt motors with silent crushing systems in your lawn.. The best garden shredder is one that has an electric shredder and is easy to assemble. Not only this, It should be able to prune to a maximum of 40mm and make healthy hedges. It helps if it has a built in wheels and a plunger for increase portability.
b) Cultivator tool

These cultivators tools are used to prepare vegetable plots, flowerbeds, etc. much easier. The best ones have tines to help smoothly cut through hard, compacted soil. Some also include a free border edger that helps clean the moss, aerate, and thatch.

c) Leaf Sweeper Tool

The purpose of leaf sweeper tool is to clear the unnecessary leafs from your lawn. Actually this tool is very useful in the autumn months on smaller lawns. They help to clear leaves. It is good to have an infinite height adjustment and a 200 liter collector.

d) An Edge Trimmer Tool

This edge trimmer tool will sure help you to trim the hedges and to prune plants. It is a very important piece of equipment.

e) A Spading Fork Tool

This tool is to make aerating and transplanting easier. It may also help you to mulch and sort hay. It can be used as a manure fork as well, and you can even use it for splitting grasses and perennials. As you can see, it is a very versatile tool.

f) A Mattock Tool

This tool is really helpful when if you need to break up clay soil or work around mature trees and their roots, a mattock a very important tool to have is. You will avoid the need for a pick, hoe, and handles in your garden if you have a mattock.

If you really want a fascinating and beautiful garden then you must have a proper tool kit and these tools must be a part of that electric lawnmower tool kit.

Article Source: http://www.freeforallarticles.com

Steve Buchanan writes article for www.lawnmowersfact.com/ariens-lawn-mowers.htm and www.lawnmowersfact.com/craftsman-lawn-mowers.htm

Clay soils have several disadvantages. First, they tend to compact easily. Compacted soils have a hard, dense layer on the surface that prevents water, air, and fertilizers from moving downward. Compaction reduces the air spaces in the soil. Without enough oxygen, plants develop shallow root systems that are more prone to drought stress. There have few nutrients available to the plants.

There is just one practical way to improve clay soils. You need to work in organic matter. Commonly available sources include peat moss, rotted animal manure, and various kinds of compost. Leaf, wood, or grass clipping composts all work well.

Dig organic matter into the soil each year, either in early spring or fall. Work organic matter into a six- to ten-inch depth, and use about one bushel of loose peat moss, rotted animal manure, or compost for every 20 square feet of garden.

Add organic matter to annual flower and vegetable gardens every year. Many gardeners neglect this important step. Organic matter is used up over time, and you need to replace it regularly. Following this plan the soil will get better every year, and your plants will show a noticeable improvement. As an added plus, you will notice that the soil becomes easier to dig and work with each year.